Tag: income

  • Where Does Your Paycheque Go?

    Where Does Your Paycheque Go?

    10 Budgeting Tips to Help You Stay on Track

    A monthly budget is like Google Maps for your finances: you follow it because you don’t know where you’re going without it. If you’re new to budgeting, don’t be discouraged by a few — or many — wrong turns and closed roads along the way. The longer you stick with it, the better you get. With a few simple budgeting tips, you can be well on your way before you know it.

    1. Set Your Goals Before You Make Your Budget
    Without a goal, a budget is just a spreadsheet that tells you to have less fun. Think about what you want in the next 5 to 10 years and figure out what financial situation you need to get there. Whatever your goals are, know that any sound financial foundation starts with an emergency fund. You might then want to pay off debt, save for a down payment on a home, or increase your savings.

    Decide where you want to be financially next year and the year after. Knowing what you want to do with your money will guide you as you figure out how to budget, and it will greatly increase the likelihood that you’ll stick to it.

    2. There’s No One Size-Fits-All Budget — Find a Plan That Works for You
    There are so many budgeting methods out there, and every guru says theirs is the best. But ultimately you have to choose the one that works for you.

    If you’ve got an ambitious goal, we recommend trying a zero-based budget first. To make a zero-based budget, start by prioritizing your expenses from essential to nonessential. Then, assign every dollar in your paycheck a “job” on the list until you run out. The most important things — housing, food, minimum debt payments — get taken care of first, and you can disburse the remaining money for your goals and fun in their order of importance to you. Zero-based budgeting is great for ‘Type A’ planners.

    If you prefer to be a little more loosey-goosey, a 50/20/30 budget is a great option. With this approach, you don’t have to think too much about your expenses. You just allocate 50% of your income to your needs, 20% to savings and 30% to wants.

    3. Use a Budget App or Envelope System to Track Your Spending
    It’s hard to lug around your laptop or binder to keep up with each budget category, so a budgeting app is a great tool for updating your budget on the go. There are many out there, whether you like to enter each transaction manually or see everything updated automatically.

    If your goal is to take an intense look at your spending, manually tracking your transactions is going to work best. Once you’ve been budgeting for a while and you’ve got a grasp on your spending, syncing transactions automatically works fine. If you still can’t stick to your budget, the envelope system can help you succeed without so much emphasis on constant tracking.

    After you decide how much money goes toward each of your expenses, put the money you’ll spend for each expense in a given week into separate envelopes and carry them with you. Once an envelope is empty, you’re done spending in that category. You can keep receipts in the envelope and examine your purchases later.

    Envelopes are best for categories you’re prone to overspending on. You probably don’t need envelopes for things like gas and utilities because you’re not likely to go on a gas-buying spree. Popular categories for envelopes are restaurants, groceries, clothes, and entertainment.

    4. Use the Past to Predict Your Future Income & Expenses
    Whether you choose a zero-based budget, 50/20/30 budget, or some other method, you’re going to have to calculate your income and the amount of money you want to put toward every category or individual expense.

    Salaried employees will get off easy when they calculate their incomes. If you have a variable income or side hustles, you’ll need to do some digging. Look back at your income from the past six months, or as far back as you can if you’ve been at your current job for less time. Then find your average monthly income and the average amount of each paycheck.

    Expenses like utilities can also be unpredictable. Check your online statements to see which months were higher versus which were lower so you can make future budgets. You may not be able to take that impromptu weekend getaway the month your electric bill will be $300, but it might be totally feasible during a month it’s going to be $75.

    5. Don’t Confuse Infrequent Expenses with Emergencies
    These aren’t the unexpected expenses that you’d cover with your miscellaneous or emergency categories. Infrequent expenses are the charges that come up once or twice a year — but we always seem to forget will happen. Like when it’s December 23 and you’re still not done with your holiday shopping. Who could’ve predicted Christmas would be on December 25 again?!

    Keep a chart that includes your semi-annual and annual expenses to determine what you need to save every month to cover them. Open a separate checking account or savings account where you put money every month to cover these expenses.

    6. Remember the Obvious: You Need to Spend Less
    Count this among the budgeting tips no one wants to hear. Once the planning is done, it’s time for the hardest part: sticking to your plan. If you’re in the habit of spending more than you make, your first priority is to find ways to save money. We don’t mean you need to find better sales and clip more coupons. The most important thing you can do is buy and spend less.

    Some of good tips to cut spending are:

    • Make a meal plan and stick to your grocery list
    • Prep meals on Sundays so you’re less likely to eat out during the week
    • Treat yourself to a coffee once a week instead of daily or cut them out completely
    • Opt for free events in your area instead of pricy activities or bars
    • Try running and body-weight workouts instead of paying for a gym membership

    There are countless ways to save money. Do everything you can to resist the temptation to make impulse purchases or spend beyond your budget. An easy way to do this: Leave your credit card at home and use cash envelopes or a debit card.

    7. Use the 30-Day Rule to Stop Impulse Shopping
    If you still need to curb impulse shopping, follow the 30-day rule: When you want to buy something that’s not in your budget, make note of the item in question for next month’s budget and revisit it in 30 days. If you still want it, you can consider buying it if you can afford it.

    8. Negotiate Your Bills to Save Money
    People often take for granted that what they’re paying for their phone, internet and insurance is what they have to pay. By contacting your providers to negotiate your bills, you could lower your bills once or twice every year.

    9. Remember That Things Will Go Wrong
    Student loans and credit cards aren’t paid off overnight. And the perfect budget isn’t made in a day. Things will change and go wrong. Impulse purchases will be made, and budgets will get obliterated by life’s little surprises. The most important tip for budgeting is to not give up. When things go wrong, alter your budget to compensate. Move money from one category to another, put less in savings, or try a side hustle to add some wiggle room. And know that sometimes you’ll find yourself ripping up the entire budget and starting again from scratch in the middle of the month. Eventually, you’ll get this whole budgeting thing down. But it’s going to start with some bumps in the road.

    10. Have an Income-Sinking Fund for When Your Income is Lower
    Living off tips, sales commissions or freelance work can make for a flexible lifestyle, but it also makes it hard to budget. When you have an inconsistent income, you can follow all the budgeting tips above, but having this additional category may help.

    When you calculate your income and get your monthly average, compare it with your income each month throughout the year. In months you expect to make more than average, take the difference, and transfer it to your income-sinking fund. It’s a separate account where you put money you plan to take out in the near future for a specific purpose, such as supplementing your income on low-earning months. During months when you expect to make less, you can withdraw up to your monthly average to help with expenses.

    The key to any good budget is consistency!

  • How to Prepare for the Upcoming Tax Season

    How to Prepare for the Upcoming Tax Season

    Many Canadians’ year-end tax prep may be a little different as 2020 draws to a close. Taking a close look at your personal balance sheet before December 31 is a routine exercise that can help you make the most of your savings, reduce your tax bill and boost your tax refund in the new year. But a slew of pandemic-linked emergency benefits and relief measures this year means there may be some additional financial housekeeping you need to do this time. Here are some tips to make sure you start off the 2021 tax season on the right foot:

    Paying Taxes on Your Emergency Benefits
    The first round of emergency benefits Ottawa rolled out during the pandemic did not have any tax withheld at source. If you received either the Canada Emergency Response Benefit (CERB) or the Canada Emergency Student Benefit (CESB), you’ll have to include 100% of those payments in your 2020 tax return. The government will send you a T4A tax reporting slip for 2020 showing the total amount you report.

    How much tax you’ll actually end up paying depends on your overall income for 2020. For example, if you made $27,000 from work in 2020 and received $8,000 worth of CERB, your taxable income for the year would be $35,000. Both the income you received from CERB and your job would be taxed in the same way.

    You May or May Not Have to Pay Taxes
    “If you’re under $12,000 in total income for the year, you don’t have to worry about any income taxes next year,” says Frank Fazzari, a chartered professional accountant at Fazzari & Partners. With the second round of COVID-19 benefits that became available in September—the Canada Recovery Benefit (CRB), Canada Recovery Sickness Benefit (CRSB), and Canada Recovery Caregiving Benefit (CRCB)—the government is withholding 10% in taxes at source.

    This, however, may be insufficient to cover your tax liability, Jamie Golombek, managing director of Tax and Estate Planning with CIBC Private Wealth Management. In addition, when it comes to the CRB, you may have to pay money back if your additional income for 2020 is more than $38,000. The claw back rate is $0.50 for each dollar of CRB received for net income over this amount. If you’ve received either round of benefits you may want to set aside some funds to cover any taxes or payments, you may owe come tax season next April.

    Repaying Emergency Benefits You Don’t Qualify For
    If you have to repay any COVID-19 benefits you didn’t qualify for, it would be best to return the funds by the end of the year. There is no obligation to return the payments by the end of the year. But repaying after December 31 means the amounts will show up on your T4A for 2020 and you may have to pay taxes on them. If you end up paying taxes on money you return, the CRA will eventually make you whole but you may have to wait until you file your 2021 tax return in the spring of 2022 until that happens. The process is based on general tax rules in the Income Tax Act that apply to repayments of taxable income.

    The Simplified Home Office Deduction
    If you’re one of the 2.4 million Canadians who’ve been working from your couch, the kitchen table or the kids’ bedroom this year because of COVID-19, you’ll likely be able to claim some home-office costs on your 2020 tax return without having to sift through receipts or ask your employers to fill out forms.

    If you’re an employee who’s been toiling at home more than 50% of the time over at least four consecutive weeks in 2020 due to COVID-19, you’ll be able to claim a deduction of $2 for every work-from-home day up to a maximum of $400. This is what the CRA is calling a temporary flat-rate method of calculating the home office deduction. If you’re an employee with significant home office expenses, you can use the current “detailed method” of calculating the home office tax break, the CRA has said.

    TFSA Withdrawals
    There are no COVID-19 rule changes affecting tax-free savings accounts, but many Canadians have ramped up their contributions this year, according to a recent study from BMO. While a smaller percentage of Canadians was able to put as much money as they had planned into a TFSA this year, those who did were able to save up a little extra, the data suggests. Overall contributions were up 9.5% year over year.

    If you’re planning to draw down on some of your TFSA savings soon, you may want to do so before the end of the year. Whenever you take money out of a TFSA, an equivalent amount of TFSA contribution room frees up in your account—but that doesn’t happen until the following calendar year.

    RRIF Withdrawals
    If you turned 71 in 2020, you have until December 31 to convert your registered retirement savings plan (RRSP) into a registered retirement income fund (RRIF) or registered annuity—that’s standard. If you already have an RRIF, though, remember Ottawa reduced the required minimum withdrawal for 2020 by 25%.

    One-time COVID-19 Payment for Persons with Disabilities
    Ottawa has also established a one-time, non-taxable payment of up to $600 for persons living with disabilities to help soften the impact of extra expenses caused by the pandemic. Being eligible and applying for the disability tax credit is one of the qualifying criteria to receive the payment. If you haven’t applied for the DTC yet, you’re still in time. Ottawa moved the application deadline from September 25 to December 31.

    Charitable Donations
    Charitable donations are especially important in a year that has seen jobless numbers skyrocket, domestic violence spikes, and marginalized communities struggle disproportionately with the impact of COVID-19. Both the federal and provincial governments offer donation tax credits that, when combined, can result in tax savings of around 50% of the value of your gift in 2020, depending on where you live. From the federal government alone, Canadians get a tax credit of 15% credit on the first $200 of charitable donations and 29% on anything beyond that amount.

     

  • Inside the Mortgage Approval Process

    Inside the Mortgage Approval Process

    Documents Required to Get the Best Mortgage Rate

    So, you’ve found the perfect home, you put in an offer and it’s accepted­­—with the condition of financing, of course. Now it’s time to seal the deal and this boils down to money. So you call your lender to finalize the mortgage. That’s when you’re going to get hit with a list of paperwork that’s required for your application. Below is a list of paperwork that you may need to complete your mortgage application:

    Personal information: Age, marital status, number, and age of kids.

    Employment details: This includes proof of income (such as T4 slips, copies of your last two paystubs, personal income tax returns, Notice of Assessments from CRA for the last two tax filing years, and a letter from your company stating your position, length of employment and salary).

    If self-employed you’ll need to provide: Incorporation documents, if applicable, as well as financial statements for the corporation for the last two to three tax years. You’ll also be required to submit full personal tax returns as well as CRA Notice of Assessments for both the corporation, as well for you personally. The lender may also ask to see portions of your books, such as your General Ledger or Profit & Loss statements. Talk to your accountant or bookkeeper for these reports.

    Other sources of income: Typically this is a statement on your part, but the lender could ask for back-up documentation. Other income can include pension, rental income, part-time work, etc. You’ll probably be asked for copies of your tax returns, or copies of paystubs or rental income documentation.

    If you already own property: A copy of the mortgage statement on your current property and a copy of last year’s property tax statement and, perhaps, this year’s up-to-date property tax statement.

    Current banking information: Including bank, branch, accounts, and balances.

    Verification of your down payment: This can be a snapshot of a bank account where the money is currently deposited, or a letter from a family member stating that the money is a loan or gift.

    Consent to run a credit history search: Every lender will either verbally ask for permission (and then obtain your Social Insurance Number) or ask you to sign an authorization form allowing them to pull your credit history.

    List of debts (otherwise known as liabilities): This is where people sometimes opt to exclude a few items owed, but you need to resist this urge. Your credit history will show all outstanding money owed, so be upfront and honest. Provide a list of what is owed, to whom you owe it to and what monthly payments, if any, you put towards paying down the debt. The list should include student loans, credit card balances, car loans, monthly lease (or lease-to-own) arrangements and personal loans.

    Copy of the listing: You will need to print off a copy of the listing and include this in your mortgage documentation package.

    Copy of purchase document: You will need a copy of the document you signed to buy the home. Known as the Agreement to Purchase and Sale, it’s the document that states the address, what’s included/excluded and the price, deposit, and down-payment you agreed to.

    Condo documentation: If you’re buying a condo or strata-townhome, you’ll also need to include the condo corporation’s financial statements and status certificates.

    Rural property: You’ll need to include the certificate for the well and/or septic tank if you’re property isn’t on municipal water and sewer.

    If you want to reduce your stress during the financing phase of your home purchase, and you don’t want to or can’t submit all this information prior to finding a property then consider gathering up all this documentation ahead of time. Just having all the documentation at the ready will reduce your workload and free you up to concentrate on last-minute requests.

     

  • Canada’s Climbing Debt-to-Income Ratio: What You Need to Know

    Canada’s Climbing Debt-to-Income Ratio: What You Need to Know

    Here we break down what the debt-to-income ratio means—for the nation’s financial health, and for yours. The latest headlines tell a now-familiar story: Canadian household’s debt loads have increased once again, with the debt-to-income ratio hitting 176.9% in June 2020. But what is this ratio, why is it rising, and—most importantly—do you need to worry about it?

    What is the debt-to-income ratio?

    First things first. The debt-to-income ratio is a measure of how much debt a household is carrying, relative to its disposable income—that is, the money you have available to spend or save, after taxes and other non-discretionary expenses, such as EI and CPP contributions, are made.

    A ratio of 176.9% means that, across all Canadian households, we collectively owe almost $1.77 for every dollar of disposable income we have. That’s very close to the all-time high of 178% in late 2017.

    How did we get here?

    There are two overarching reasons why we’ve ended up with our current level of collective debt.

    Debt is cheap.
    The basic laws of economics tell us that when prices fall, demand increases.  Here’s why that’s important for the debt-to-income ratio: what really matters is not the total amount borrowed, but the cost to service that debt over time—that’s the debt-service ratio.  The lower the interest rate, the cheaper it is to borrow money and service that debt, and thus the more debt a household can afford to carry.

    Over time, the debt-service ratio has remained pretty constant even as the household debt-to-income ratio has risen.  In 1980, for example, the ratio of household debt to personal disposable income was just 66%, or $0.66 owed for every dollar of disposable income.  Back then, however, the bank rate—the minimum rate of interest that the Bank of Canada charges on one-day loans to financial institutions, now superseded by the target interest rate—was 12.89%, compared to just 0.25% today.

    In practical terms, $100 borrowed for a year at 1980 rates would cost nearly 20 times as much as it would to borrow today.  This astonishing drop in interest rates accounts for why the debt-service ratio has remained relatively steady over time, fluctuating between about 12% and 15% from 1990 to the first quarter of 2020, and falling from 14.81% in the last quarter of 2019 to 14.67% in the first quarter of 2020.

    Our relationship to debt has changed.
    Over time, we’ve become more and more accepting of borrowing as a normal part of household finances. When the ability to borrow became available as a tool to “bring forward” our household spending, lots of us decided to do so. And as the cost of borrowing progressively dropped, we ramped up our debt.

    This behaviour is consistent with what financial economists call consumption smoothing, or the idea that we can maximize happiness by spreading our resources over our lifetimes to achieve the highest possible total standard of living. From this point of view, in the words of former Bank of Canada Governor Steven Poloz, “Simply put, debt is a tool that allows people to smooth out their spending throughout their life.”

    Does the debt-to-income ratio matter?

    The general consensus is that excessive levels of debt make households financially vulnerable.  Economic shocks are sudden and unpredictable changes in the variables that affect the overall economy, such as an unforeseen rise or fall in the cost of commodities, an unexpected shift in consumer spending, or a housing or stock market crash.

    At the individual level, however, you’re likely more concerned that too much household debt might mean you can’t make your mortgage, student loan or car payments if something unexpected happens—such as normal fluctuations in interest rates, or the loss of your job.  (These are personal financial shocks, compared to the economy-wide macroeconomic shocks of falling commodity or housing prices.)  Research into Canadians’ debt shows that younger people, those with household income of at least $100,000, and those with mortgages have more debt than older Canadians, non-homeowners, and those with lower incomes.

    The use of debt is also correlated with optimism about our financial futures.  People who expect their financial situation to improve over time are much more likely to have more debt: a Statistics Canada study shows that peoples’ expectations about their financial situation are strongly correlated with both their levels of indebtedness and their debt-to-income ratio.  Even the most optimistic households, however, are still subject to borrowing rules set by lenders, such as the new mortgage insurance rules for the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, which will go into effect on July 1, 2020.

    What do I need to know about the debt-to-income ratio to plan my financial life?

    Here are two ways to think about whether the debt-to-income headlines affect you.

    The average might not apply to you.
    The debt-to-income figure represents an average for all Canadian households, including those who have little or no debt—meaning it must also include some very highly indebted Canadians.  In fact, research from the Bank of Canada shows that the number of highly indebted Canadians —those with a debt-to-income greater than 350%—doubled from 2005 to 2014, from about 4% to 8% of all households.  So a rising average amount of debt may not capture individual household changes, including yours.

    Your individual circumstances matter.
    The more debt you have, the more vulnerable you are to “shocks” that can impact your ability to repay it.  At the same time, however, your age, income, appetite for debt and expectations about your financial future will all combine to impact your approach to borrowing.

    If you want to maximize your financial peace of mind and protect yourself from the risk of being unable to meet your debt obligations over time, you could minimize borrowing while prioritizing paying back any existing debt.  A personal debt management plan, which maps out how you’re going to repay what you owe over time, will allow you to see past headlines to understand debt as one tool in your financial toolbox.

     

  • Start an Emergency Fund

    Start an Emergency Fund

    We never know what the future holds for us, so it’s always best to be prepared.  Having an emergency fund is extremely important so you’re always prepared to deal with what life brings—good or bad.  It’s a good idea to make an emergency fund one of your highest savings priorities.  Put $20 a week in an emergency fund and your account will grow to over $1,000 in just one year.  That’s often enough to cover a repair bill or emergency travel.  An emergency fund can also shield you from the high cost of borrowing and keep you from sinking into debt.  Follow these five tips to help you set goals and take steps toward starting an emergency fund:

    Chart your monthly income & expenses. Grab a piece of paper and write down how much money your earn and how much you spend for each month. Be sure to include recurring expenses such as your rent or mortgage, utility bills, childcare, and estimates of other out-of-pocket expenses for things you might buy such as movie tickets, dinner out and clothing.

    Set your emergency savings goal. An emergency fund should cover three to six months’ worth of realistic living expenses. If you feel your income is stable or have access to home equity or other forms of credit to use if needed, then you may be able to plan for the lower figure.  If your credit is near its limit and your income outlook is less secure, you might want to save more.

    Develop a plan to start saving. Setting a goal and developing a plan to achieve those goals go hand-in-hand. Part of your plan may include specific and measurable targets to work toward.  For example, one specific goal may be to save an extra $300 over the next six months to put into an emergency fund.

    Put your emergency fund in an accessible place. The best place for your emergency fund is in a liquid account (accounts where your cash is easily accessible). A liquid account might be a regular savings account at a bank or credit union that provides some return on your deposit and from which your funds can be withdrawn at any time without penalty.  If you consider other options, like a certificate of deposit, money market fund or mutual fund, be sure to figure out how accessible your money will be in an emergency.

    Stick to your plan. Once you’ve created your plan, make sure you stick to it. This can sometimes be the hardest part of saving for an emergency fund or any financial goal in general.  If your goals are realistic and attainable, sticking to the plan will be much easier.  A good way to stay on track is to save automatically.  Set up a systematic transfer from your regular checking or savings account at your bank.  Be sure to keep your rainy-day funds separate from your other accounts, and label it “for emergency use only.”  Just writing down an account’s purpose can keep you from spending the money for any other reason.

    Starting an emergency fund is a necessary building block for long term financial stability.  Anyone can do it; you just need the right plan.

     

  • Before You Make a Budget

    Before You Make a Budget

    You’re ready to start a budget — awesome!  You’re probably feeling excited and ready to get your money in order. But here’s the thing: It’s super easy to give up on budgets.  They can get complicated and require some maintenance.  So before creating your budget, take these simple steps to set yourself up for success:

    1. Track Your Spending

    Sometimes it feels like each paycheck disappears into thin air. The money lands in your account, you revel in your balance for one day, then you pay your monthly bills and it’s gone!

    That’s why it’s so important to track your spending. Before you even start a budget, you’ll want to get a clear idea of where all your money is going each month. There are plenty of ways to do this: good old-fashioned check book balancing, pen and paper or checking your accounts each day.  Get yourself used to keeping tabs on your spending by using an app like Mint.com.  This will help you better understand what your fixed expenses are each month and where you might be overspending.

    2. Set Yourself a Few Fun Goals

    Because budgeting can quickly become a dreaded chore, you’ll want to set yourself a few goals to keep you encouraged.  No, these don’t all have to be boring financial goals, like paying off student loans or starting an emergency savings.  Although those are great, work at a fun goal, like a road trip or cruise.  Then, hold yourself accountable by setting up a separate savings accounts and have money automatically come out of your chequing account.  You probably won’t even miss that small amount each week, but over time, it will contribute to your goal.

    3. Bundle Your Debt Into One Bill

    One of the trickiest parts about budgeting is keeping tabs on all your monthly payments, especially if you have debt.  Rather than making four different credit card payments each month and logging them in your budget, make life easier for yourself by combining them under one umbrella.  It will be much easier to budget with one, easy-to-manage monthly payment.

    4. Find Easy Ways to Cut Back Big Bills

    Building a budget will force you to take a good hard look at your monthly expenses. Ask yourself: Am I paying too much for any of these non-negotiables?  The answer: Probably.  Start with a bill that’s super easy to cut — car insurance.  Yeah, there’s no getting around it, unfortunately.  But to get the best deal, you’ll want to compare rates twice a year.  Sometimes you get complacent paying your bills, but there’s usually ways to save or haggle for a lower price.  Cable/internet is another good example, if you call, chances are there’s some kind of promo they can offer.

    5. Pick Your Go-To Budgeting Method

    Yes, there are budgeting methods — plural — but before you panic, we recommend using the 50/20/30 budgeting method for its simplicity.

    Here’s how it works:

    • 50% of your income goes toward essentials
    • 20% goes toward financial goals
    • 30% goes toward personal spending

    Of course, you’ll want to play around with this, but keeping these base-line percentages in mind will help you figure out how to allot your money for the month.

     

  • How to Create a Budget

    How to Create a Budget

    A budget is a plan, an outline of your future income and expenses that you can use as a guideline for spending and saving. Only 47% of Canadians use a budget to plan their spending. But Canadians are feeling more in debt than ever with 90% saying they have more debt today than five years ago. A budget can help you pay your bills on time, cover unexpected emergencies, and reach your financial goals — now and in the future. Most of the information you need is already at your fingertips and the guidelines below will show you how to create a budget.

    Setting Up a Monthly Budget

    It’s a good exercise to document your own actual spending habits for a month or two, and then compare them to this model. This can be a quick way to find out if you are overspending in certain areas.

    STEP 1: Calculate Your Income
    To set a monthly budget, you need to determine how much income you have. Make sure you include all sources of income such as salaries, interest, pension, and any other income sources, including a spouse’s income if you’re married. Determine your pay after deductions, and then use the following chart to help figure out what your monthly take-home pay is:

    • Weekly cheques, multiply by 4.333
    • Every-two-week cheques, multiply by 2.167
    • Twice-a-month cheques, multiply by 2
    • Irregular annual income, divide the net total by 12

    You also want to make sure you add in other sources of income, such as interest income, spousal support, child support, tenant rent, and other payments. As with your pay cheques, determine a monthly average for these streams. Using the downloadable Budget Worksheet, write a dollar figure next to each relevant income source. Make sure that the figure you write down is the amount you receive from each income source on a monthly basis.

    STEP 2: Estimate Your Expenses
    The best way to do this is to keep track of how much you spend each month. The first step is to sum up just where (and how much) you think you are spending. The Expense Worksheet divides spending into fixed and flexible expenses. If some of your expenses for one or more category change significantly each month, take a three-month average for your total. As for the other categories, you might prefer to split them into more narrow subgroups separating food, clothing, and entertainment, for example.

    STEP 3: Figure Out the Difference
    Once you’ve totalled up your monthly income and your monthly expenses, subtract the expense total from the income total to get the difference. A positive number indicates that you’re spending less than you earn – congratulations! A negative number indicates that your expenses are greater than your income and gives you an idea of where you need to trim expenses and by how much.

    Well done! You’ve created a budget. The next step is to make adjustments to this outline in order to achieve your financial goals. Track your budget over time to make sure you’re on track. You need to start making records of your actual income and expenses. This information will help you to understand any “budget variances” – the difference between the amount you planned to spend in a certain category, and the amount you actually spent. Prepare to be surprised for the first couple of months. You may not need to track your spending indefinitely. Usually, a couple of months are all you need to get an idea of where your money is going.

    Helpful Tip

    The 50/20/30 Rule
    When creating a budget, you can list each and every monthly expense you incur as its own line item, or you can combine some of your expenses and follow what’s known as the 50/20/30 rule. The benefit of the 50/20/30 rule is that it groups certain expenses together to make your budget easier to track. The 50/20/30 rule splits your living expenses into three main categories:

    1. Fixed costs that stay the same month after month, such as your mortgage, car payment, and cable bill, should take up 50% of your income.
    2. Variable costs that can change from month to month, such as entertainment, groceries, and clothing, should take up 30% of your income.
    3. Savings, which should take up 20% of your income.

    The 50/20/30 rule allows you to retain some flexibility in your budget while saving a nice percentage of your income. While you can always adjust these percentages to accommodate your circumstances, limiting your fixed costs to 50% of your income should leave you with enough money left over to save and cover your variable expenses. Along these lines, allocating 30% of your income to variable costs means you’ll have a decent amount of wiggle room within that category alone.

  • What to Do With Your Tax Refund

    What to Do With Your Tax Refund

    Another tax season is behind you – it’s time to relax, sit back, and wait for that return. The average Canadian is entitled to a refund, according to Canada Revenue Agency, with the average refund for last year’s income tax totaling $1,580. Before you splurge, however, let’s take at a look at the benefits of saving your tax refund and putting it to better use. Here are our top tips for what to do with your tax refund:

    1. Stop treating your return like found money

    Although most Canadians are happy to receive a tax refund, there’s very little reason for celebration – you’re actually giving Canada Revenue Agency an interest-free loan. Many Canadians think of a tax refund as a bonus, even though it’s your own money to begin with. Instead of treating your tax refund like found money, it’s important to spend it prudently.

    1. Pay off any outstanding bills

    If you have outstanding bills, using your tax refund to pay them off is probably the best option for you. There’s nothing worse than the stress of being behind. Take this opportunity to get ahead of the game for once.

    1. Pay down your credit card debt

    Credit card debt can build quickly, but it’s hard to whittle down once it mounts. If you have outstanding debt on your credit cards, the responsible thing to do would be to put your tax return towards that debt. Of all the debt you have, credit card debt is most likely to have the highest interest rate running from 10% – 29%. By paying that debt down first, you’ll actually be saving money in interest later.

    1. Put some of it towards your mortgage

    You can’t beat the guaranteed rate of return of paying down your mortgage. If you have a mortgage that allows you to make additional payments without penalty (and most mortgages will allow you to make an annual lump sum payment of 5% – 25% of the mortgage value), this might be the perfect opportunity to use that to your advantage. The more you pay now, the less you pay in interest later.

    1. Invest in your future

    If you haven’t started an RRSP, maybe it’s time. Your return might not amount to much now, but over the years your investment will grow. This is a particularly good idea if you are feeling no other financial pressures at the moment. A tax return can also be the perfect way to launch an RESP for your child. Consider spending your tax refund to invest for your child’s education – a deposit to an RESP (Registered Education Savings Plan) could be eligible for 20% grant for children up to age of 18 for contributions up to $2500.

    1. Start an emergency fund

    Doesn’t it sometimes seem like bad things happen either when you’re least prepared or when you’re least able to cope? You just paid a huge vet bill and your washing machine suddenly dies. You finally paid off your credit card debt and your car breaks down. These situations happen all the time, and sometimes it feels like you’ll never get ahead. Without an emergency fund, situations like these can be stressful. Why not take this extra cash and set it aside for those little emergencies? When the time comes – and it will – you’ll be glad you did.

    1. Upgrade your job skills

    Have you recently found yourself wanting to return to school? Have you dreamt of taking courses to upgrade your skills? Will doing so help increase your salary? If you answered ‘yes’ to any of these questions, you might want to consider using your return to invest in yourself. This is an especially good idea if it will help to boost your income in the long run.

    1. Treat yourself to something nice

    Sometimes being responsible is all we do. If you’re one of those people who seem to always be doing the right thing – saving money, paying down bills, saying no when you really want to say yes – then maybe you need to do something nice for you. Buy yourself a new outfit. Go get your hair done. Take yourself out for a nice lunch. Go golfing. Spoiling yourself is sometimes the best course of action – especially if it’s something you don’t often do.

  • What First-Time Home Buyers Need to Know

    What First-Time Home Buyers Need to Know

    With record-low interest rates that may go away in the distant future, many would-be first-time home buyers are considering their options with regard to buying a home. In preparing to purchase a home, it will help to know what lenders are looking for when buyers apply for a mortgage with them. There are four components: down payment, credit, income and assets, and appraised value of the property.

    Down Payment – Putting down at least 25% is ideal, in that buyers can avoid having to purchase mortgage default insurance on their loan. The higher the loan to value ratio, the more risk the lender is being asked to take on. This will result in higher interest rates for the buyer.

    Credit – There are several components to this, including total debt, recent payment history, and ability to manage credit over time. These items give the lender a picture of the buyer’s ability to manage obligations over time. Of the above items, recent payment history is probably the most important. Prior to taking on a mortgage, buyers who are having issues making monthly payments such as those on a car will face questions as to how they will be able to manage after they move into a home.

    Income & Assets – Lenders are looking for two to three years of stable employment history from borrowers. They use two ratios to determine if buyers qualify from an income perspective. The first is the GDSR, or Gross Debt Servicing Ratio. This is the ratio of total shelter expenses (mortgage, taxes, insurance) to gross income. Lenders are looking for this number to be in the 30% to 32% range. The second ratio is the TDSR, or Total Debt Service Ratio, which is the ratio of all financial obligations to gross income. Lenders here are looking for 40% to 42% maximum.

    Ideally buyers will obtain a mortgage in which the principal and interest components of the payment amount will remain constant for as long as possible.

    Should property values decrease, even if the income of the buyer remains the same, being able to refinance the mortgage at the end of the term could prove to be out of the question, at any rate. As far as assets go, the lender will want to know where the down payment is coming from, which could be from the buyer’s savings or perhaps via a gift from a close relative.

    Property Value – The lender needs to know if the property is worth what the buyer and seller think it is worth. If there is a difference between the appraised value of a property and the contract price, the lender will take the lower of the two.